Baking Motherboard Plastic Connector

RE: Broke the plastic connector that holds the DVD ribbon to motherboard Jump to solution You won't find the connector sold as a separate part but you may be able to find someone selling an otherwise dead mainboard for parts on EBay and be able to buy it for a few dollars to salvage the connector.

1. Baking Tv Motherboard

Baking Tv Motherboard

Hey everyone. Got an interesting proposition for you guys!I came across an old HP Pavillion DV2500 laptop with a supposedly fried video card (I turn on the laptop and I get nothing but a black screen). Since the video cards are built into the motherboard, I figured I'd probably have to spend a fair amount of money to replace the motherboard entirely.

However, I came across a few bits of documentation saying that this issue (damaged video card) was extremely common in the HP DV series, and that an easy, cheap fix is to put the motherboard into a 400 degree F oven for 10 minutes. Somehow this is supposed to fix the problem.My question is do you guys think it's worth a shot? The way I see it, if I'd be spending a few hundred dollars for a replacement motherboard anyway, why not try this supposed cheap fix?

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I wouldn't lose anything if it didn't work-I'd still have a motherboard with a damaged video chip, right?Anyway, if any of you have ever tried this, how'd it work out? Have you heard of this fix before?Any opinions or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!Best wishes,Matt. I have hered of similar isues with HP laptops. One of my friends was talking to sombody about doing something similar. The problem was supoably that the chips and other parts were geting so hot that they were degrading the solder points.

I think it could work, but i also saw you do that you'l loose alot if not all your electrlitic caps, also i,d strongly sugest removing the CPU from the motherboard, witch in some cases is not even posible. I'd try some other tricks first though. If you can find sombody with an SMD soldering station that would be the best option. Some of these are just really hot air and others use a special IR lamp on thermistat to melt the solder. I'd sugest looking around to see if anyone by you has such a divice (try a local electronic shop, coledge, etc.

They may have some SMD divice you could use. I always desoldered smd parts by just using a normall soldering iron 30 watts. Part size kin of makes a difrence on how to do this. Small caps, resistors, etc hold iron horizontal to board with the heating element part as clos as posible to the part with out touching anything. After 30 sec or the solder should soften or melt. Biger parts, ICs, etc apply heat under the board in as close to the above conections as posible. But don't touch the board as you may melt off the traces.

This works well if you can put the board horizontaly and iron directly under because heat rises, and the solder would flow down to the conections.if those don't work i'd say try something like an old frying pan or iron, as these would only heat the conections and not all the other parts also. Part size kin of makes a difrence on how to do this. Small caps, resistors, etc hold iron horizontal to board with the heating element part as clos as posible to the part with out touching anything. After 30 sec or the solder should soften or melt. Biger parts, ICs, etc apply heat under the board in as close to the above conections as posible.

But don't touch the board as you may melt off the traces. This works well if you can put the board horizontaly and iron directly under because heat rises, and the solder would flow down to the conections.if those don't work i'd say try something like an old frying pan or iron, as these would only heat the conections and not all the other parts also.

Click to expand.That's a good point, about the small components. I think as long as I set the board up an inch or two, it'll allow enough even air flow to prevent burning of the components. Also, 400.F for 8-10 minutes probably won't cause too much damage, I don't think.I really wish I had a better way to do this, but I'm not sure I trust the frying pan idea. For one thing, frying pans aren't level, and it's critical that the board stay level during the process. Also, it seems to me that the heat transfer won't be even and might cause more harm than good. To be honest, I think I'd opt for baking it in the oven before frying it in a frying panRegards.

I just found this video that does essentially the same thing, except it's a lot faster and doesn't require filling an oven with toxic fumes:Has anyone used the torch technique? Do you have any tips or tricks? Obviously you need to cover up the parts that could melt/burn, and you have to keep the torch constantly moving, but are there any other suggestions?I might be able to get my hands on a heat gun. Any chance that would work just as well?I've also been meaning to ask-I have a Weller temperature-controlled soldering iron. It's old, but still gives off really good heat. Is there any way to use that thing instead?Sorry for all the consecutive questions.

I guess I'm a little excited with this project. The guy who handed me this laptop said that if I can fix it I can have it. It's a really nice machine, and if I can get it to work again it might become my main computer. It'll need a few upgrades-RAM, OS, etc-but other than that, i really like the look and feel of it.Regards,Matt.

It seems on the PS3 that the BGA graphics chips get hot and desolder. Like your mobo, YouTube has lots of bake it, wrap it in towels and shove a hair dryer into the vent kind of approaches in an effort to reflow the solder under the BGAs without setting the house afire. I guess it works sometimes and a few reported that they only had to repeat it every couple of months or so!!! WOW!!!I called my PCB assembler (Labor Techtronics, Inc.

In Dallas TX) and asked if they could reflow the PS3 mainboard (in their many-dollar, designed for the task SMT/BGA soldering/reflow system) and they indicated it would be no problem and not too costly to do. After the holidays, I'll pull it apart and let them do it. I expect you could find an assembly outfit that would do the same via post.The boards were originally assembled using precise temperature control and heat management in machines designed especially for the task. The cycle is non-trivial. Consequently, I personally don't put much stock in the oven, hair dryer, gas torch shake-n-bake methods.Good luck with whatever you try and let us know how you did! It seems on the PS3 that the BGA graphics chips get hot and desolder.

Like your mobo, YouTube has lots of bake it, wrap it in towels and shove a hair dryer into the vent kind of approaches in an effort to reflow the solder under the BGAs without setting the house afire. I guess it works sometimes and a few reported that they only had to repeat it every couple of months or so!!! WOW!!!I called my PCB assembler (Labor Techtronics, Inc.

In Dallas TX) and asked if they could reflow the PS3 mainboard (in their many-dollar, designed for the task SMT/BGA soldering/reflow system) and they indicated it would be no problem and not too costly to do. After the holidays, I'll pull it apart and let them do it. I expect you could find an assembly outfit that would do the same via post.The boards were originally assembled using precise temperature control and heat management in machines designed especially for the task. The cycle is non-trivial. Consequently, I personally don't put much stock in the oven, hair dryer, gas torch shake-n-bake methods.Good luck with whatever you try and let us know how you did! Click to expand.Thanks John.

I'll be documenting the process, whatever I decide to do. There really aren't any places in my neck of the woods that have solder reflow capabilities. My best chance is to do this myself (one of the many disadvantages of living out in the middle of the woods ).

I'm thinking the heat gun is probably the route I'm going to take, since it's easily controllable and is only directed at a small point, so there's no risk of blowing surrounding electrolytic caps or anything.